Thursday, 6 January 2011

Gardening and Self-Sufficiency, Honey Bees and Fish

Honey Bees


It is ironic how nowadays city beekeepers prosper more than their country cousins. The cities have caused a poverty of country wildlife by incessant taking of land for roads, building and for more food production. There are now so few areas of uncultivated land and wildflowers that many county beekeepers despair, while city gardens are filling with expensively planted flowers. Urban beekeepers also find that the shelter and warmth from all the buildings extends the honey season by many weeks. 
Bees are an ideal occupation for someone with a small garden and who is good at slow, gentle movements and taking methodical care. The amount of work is not great, but it must be done at the right date and often at the right time of day so it suits the retired. A modest investment will set you up with honey and beeswax for life. You can also spend a lot of time just watching bees. If you have the space, you can help them by planting the right sort of flowers, and thereby increase the quality and flavour of your honey. Bees do not use their sense of smell much and tend to go for blue or white flowers, though other colours are not excluded.
Trees and shrubs have also come to depend on bees, and limes are well known for filling hives with honey. 
Most members of the following families are good for bees, but avoid sterile, double flowered varieties:
Acer, Aesculus, Alnus, Berberis, Betula, Caragana, Catalpa, Ceanothus, Cercis, Chaenomeles, Cistus, Cotoneaster, Crataegus, Daphne, Eleagnus, Escallonia, Fagus, Fraxinus, fuchsia, Hedera, Hypericum, Ilex, Laurus, Liquidambar, Liriodendron, Malus, Mespilus, Olearia, Perowskia, Physiocarpus, Populus, Potentilla, Prunus, Pyracantha, Quercus, Rhamnus, Rhus, Ribes, Robinia, Rosmarinus, Rubus, Salix, Senecio, Skimmia, Sorbus, Spiraea, Symphoricarpus, Syringa, Tamarix, Tillia, Ulex, Viburnum and Weigela.
In the vegetable and fruit garden, leave unwanted brassicas, leeks and onions to go to flower as bees love these. Strawberries, especially the alpine ones, are always popular, but raspberries, blackberries and their hybrids are favourite. Clovers sown in sward and as groundcover or green manure are one of the biggest yielders of honey. On farms, field bean and oilseed rape are the largest sources. Sweet basil, summer savory, lemon balm, and the mints are all much loved. On a cost effective basis, the mints are probably the best for large areas as they spread so well.


... and Fish

Well, why not? I have goldfish in my water butts to keep down the gnat larvae and they breed up and produce a surplus.
Unfortunately goldfish are not tasty and are bony, even the cats refuse them and most other cold water fish that could be kept are not great meals. Tasty fish like trout need sparkling running water. However, they used to have fish ponds in the Dark Ages and in the East, so it may be worth pursuing. Certainly many cunning schemes have centred around alternating sunken livestock grazing meadows with ponds every couple of years. Fish and livestock have different parasites; the fertility left in the mud grows good grass; and, when flooded, grassland produces rich food for fish.


Related articles: 


Gardening and Four-Legged Friends
Gardening and Self-Sufficiency


Related sites:


www.gardeninginfozone.com 
www.yourgardeninginfo.com 
www.thegardeningbible.com





Saturday, 1 January 2011

Sharing our garden with backyard friends

Sharing our garden with backyard friends 
Along with the satisfaction of growing your own food and flowers, the pleasure of real freshness and flavour, the greatest joy of successful organic gardening is spying a rare butterfly, a grass snake or a dragonfly by your pool. All the natural fertility you make in your soil, the many forms of life it supports and the inviting and sustaining habitat you create will attract the wildlife we all love and wish to see. These are disappearing in the wild and our aim is to preserve and bring them to strength again within our bounds. We may lose some crops to them, but in return they give us pleasure, control many pests and improve our fertility. 
Surely we can afford to share a little of our and nature's surplus with them? But not only may we have wild friends who live with us, we can have pets and livestock. These latter are a cunning way to convert medium-grade household and garden wastes into high-grade food and also high-grade compost material. By feeding animals leftovers and any other edible items that would otherwise go to waste, we can recycle the food value back as eggs, meat or milk. 
This is also a way of converting the surpluses of summer into a more storable form. Don't be put off by the added responsibility of looking after animals – having chickens is much easier than keeping a cat or a dog – and their eggs are far better! 



Related sites:


Pot Pourri and Strewing Herbs

Household products, pot pourri and strewing herbs
It is worth noting a few of their more handy uses around the home, though. Handfuls of fresh or dried herbs wrapped in cloth and tied under the hot tap create a wonderful and relaxing bath to finish off a hard day in the garden. Pot pourris are air fresheners made from dried herbs; special recipes are quoted needing exotic ingredients, but any dried herb in a bowl will eliminate unpleasant scents and give off its own aroma. 
My favourite is based on lemon verbena leaves with some rose petals, eau de cologne mint and 'Herba Barona' thyme. Try whatever you have available. Dried herbs tied in bags keep pests out of drawers and cupboards, giving them a pleasant smell. Lavender is the best base for this. 
Strewing herbs are better than pot pourri for scenting a room and ideal for floor coverings in potting sheds, where they give a pleasant – if dusty – atmosphere. They tend to get carted around on feet in the house. I prefer mints and cotton lavender for working areas, hyssop by the wellie rack. For the summerhouse and in my car footwells, thick layers of lavender create a tranquil atmosphere. In the fruit store I use southernwood to give a clean scent and drive away pests. The barbecue can scent the air and drive away gnats and flies if small bundles of fresh or soaked dried herbs are added to the coals. They can flavour, and smoke, the food as well.



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A Better Salad and Kohlslaw


Bored with the blandness of many salads, I experimented with adding fresh herbs to enliven them. I also reasoned that more varied foods, especially using more herbs, would provide healthier nutrition. Once I had started, I soon found the herbs outgrew the 'lettuce and cucumber' portion. During really hot summers when lettuce crops failed, I discovered that by blending many herbs I could make delicious salads without any lettuce or most other conventional saladings at all. The more herbs I blended, the better the overall taste, as long as I used the very bitter and strong herbs with the utmost moderation. 


Although some of my more conservative friends have looked questioningly at these strange mixes, they have nearly always gone on to enjoy them. The basic principle is to use as many different edible herbs as possible without letting any one flavour dominate. Go to each herb and take small quantities and chop them fine. By varying the proportions the mix can be adjusted to suit most tastes. 
Of course, for some people the flavour will be too strong, but this can be tempered by adding saladings to dilute the herbs. Much of the year it is possible to continually crop small amounts of very many different herbs, though the choice is not as wide in late winter and early spring. It is then that the hardier herbs and vegetables such as sage, rosemary, thyme, chives, cabbage and kale can be valuable by providing the most part of salads.


Super salad
Add, mix and adjust to taste as available. All should be finely chopped: Small amounts of rosemary, thyme, sage, marjoram, sweet cicely, summer savory, shungiku, coriander and fennel.
Large amounts of parsley, chervil, dill, French tarragon and basil. Lots and lots and lots of chives and rocket
Varying quantities to taste of mint, nasturtium leaves and flowers, purslane, iceplant, good King Henry, grated horseradish, land cress, citrus leaves, radicchio and alpine strawberries.
Mix all the above up thoroughly to be diluted with background saladings of: shredded carrot, grated red and green cabbage, shredded kohlrabi, chopped red, green and some of the hot peppers, cucumber and gherkin bits, tender curly kale leaves, corn salad, Claytonia and even lettuce, chicory, endive, almost any edible green, and baby peas. Then add pot marigold, day lily (Hemerocallis), pelargonium and shungiku petals, borage and rosemary flowers, some violets, pansies, bergamot and loads of rose petals. When ready to serve top with sliced 'Gardener's Delight' tomatoes and sprinkle over hull-less pumpkin, poppy, celery and sunflower seeds. I rarely use salad dressings on this, but prefer to serve it with a well-moistened dish such as taramasalata, humous, egg mayonnaise, etc. (I have also eaten, but cannot and do not recommend including, very small amounts of clary sage, salad burnet, lovage, hyssop, winter savory, lemon verbena, lemon balm and lavender.)


Toast topping
A very nutritious meal for those in a hurry. Soft boil an egg (or eggs), make some toast and chop up finely a handful of any tasty herbs, but especially chives and chervil. Put the chopped herbs in a small bowl and add (to taste) grated cheese, mayonnaise, salad cream or similar, some tomato ketchup and a dash of hot chilli or Worcester sauce. As soon as the egg is cooked, shell and chop it into the bowl, mix quickly and spoon onto the buttered toast. This goes well with the salad above and the kohlslaw below to make a mega-healthy meal.


'Kohlslaw'
This is like coleslaw but made from grated kohlrabi instead of cabbage, plus carrot, apple and onion, mixed with mayonnaise (or similar), a little garlic and paprika. I often add grated celeriac, red and green peppers and small amounts of dill and other herbs. This is a moist dish to complement salad or to go with baked potatoes or toast topping.



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Growing Citrus Fruits



Citrus trees wait a decade before fruiting when grown from pips, but grafted plants can be obtained which will fruit while small. These need frost-free conditions and are best in an open, gritty, rich, almost ericaceous, potting compost in large containers, preferably of terracotta or wood slat. The roots need good aeration, so drill multiple breathing holes in plastic pots. Citrus like nitrogenous feeds — I add fresh human recycled liquid fertiliser to their water once a week during the growing season. They should be watered copiously then allowed to drain and must never dry out. Citrus are easy to look after but suffer from aphids, spider mite and scale insects, so need regular careful inspection. A hard prune in late winter keeps them compact and provides propagation material. They do not like being under cover year round — put them outdoors in summer. Although, not cheap to buy, they can be multiplied by cuttings which fruit more readily than seedlings.
Epicurean attentions :
Marmalade is easy to make so I freeze all home-grown orange and lemon skins to add to a jelly made with yellow tomatoes and white currants. The flowers have such divine scent that the plants are worth having for this alone.
Lemons seem the easiest and can produce worthwhile quantities of fruit almost year round, 'Meyer's' is most reliable.
Satsumas are easy an produce delicious sweet fruits. Oranges, grapefruits and others require more warmth and bigger pots to do well but are still possible.


Learn More with these Related sites:


Growing Kiwi

Kiwi (Actinidia deliciosa) is an edible-climber which needs a very warm wall or to be under cover to fruit. It takes up a lot of space, but has lovely leaves and attractive bristly stems, so allow it to ramble over a shed or pergola. 
If it crops in a hot summer look on it as a bonus. Grown this way pruning is not required and kiwis have few pests or diseases. Under cover, they are only controlled by being grown in large pots. You must have a male as well as (several) females, though self-pollinating cultivars are becoming available.

Growing Melons at Home



The best melons I grow outdoors are sown direct in a coldframe on top of a freshly made compost heap in late spring. In warmer regions than Britain, melons can be planted out where they like to ramble under sweet corn or sunflowers. On the ground, place young fruit on a piece of wood or tile to stop it rotting. Under cover, melons are usually trained up strong strings; the ripening fruits need to be supported in bags or nets.
Epicurean attentions:
Pick melons when they give off scent and the stalk will start to pull out. Chill for a day, or so, then gently warm just before serving.
Watermelons are even more difficult to grow than melons in a cold climate, but I just manage them in a heated coldframe and in my polytunnel. Watermelons are started much the same as indoor cucumbers and need similar conditions, but prefer a more open, gritty compost and need more sun and lots of water. They seem to be the ultimate spider mite attractant! Although not enormous, the home-grown fruit's texture and sweetness have amazed me. Try 'Sugar Baby' or 'Yellow Baby'.